Perbacco
A multitude of pleasures

By Leslie Harlib

Perbacco may be one of the most exciting Italian restaurants in the Bay Area.

It’s owned by Northern Italian-born restaurateur Umberto Gibin. The kitchen is commanded by Staffan Terje. He headed Scala’s Bistro on Union Square for eight years and is now creating
his most sophisticated fare yet.

The name is Italian; Perbacco means to accentuate positive comments. A recent meal there left me raving with pleasure.
Everything’s made in-house, from delicate breadsticks that shatter into clouds of toasty fluff on the tongue, to exquisite noodles such as tajarin ($11 for a half portion). These were buttery, fragile spaghetti, given depth with a topping of rich pork sugo. The meat had been cooked down for five hours, turning the pork into a savory Italian Sloppy Giuseppe. We also loved near-translucent
pansotti, round ravioli ($10 for a half portion) stuffed with a refreshing mix of basil, fresh chard, ricotta and herbs, then
dabbed with walnut butter.

As you wait for a starter such as a chef s selection mix of his own charcuterie that may include velvety prosciutto, blood sausage, mortadella and four types of salami ($18 or $30, depending on the
size), enjoy the people-watching. The décor is sleek; a contemporary, fuss-free space sizzling with energy. It s just what
I d expect to find in a popular Roman or Milanese restaurant. The range of clientele reflects this hip sleekness.

Formerly the Gold Coast, Perbacco was redesigned by the talented Cass

Calder Smith, who gave the vast, narrow main room life and height with an open second story eating space and plenty of
thin mirrors on every level and wall to bounce light.

It’s busiest at the long bar behind the reception stand. It’s most comfortable (and least noisy) at the plush red leather booths and benches at the rear of the restaurant near the open kitchen. These are the best for quiet and comfort.

Back to the starters. Terje is experimenting with some wonderful, simple preparations of raw fish that came across like
Japanese/Italian fusion. I was impressed with hamachi, plush and soothing on the tongue, dashed with a bit of Serrano chili,
brightened with sliced fresh kumquats and garnished with arugula ($12).

Fritto Misto ($11) was one of the best versions of this dish I’ve ever eaten, because it was a balanced party of rock shrimp,
olives, fennel, green and yellow beans, all dipped in a batter that turned them coppery and crisp without a bit of grease.

A Knoll Farms arugula salad ($10) celebrated late winter shifting into spring with luscious textures, all crunchy marcona almonds, sweet blood orange
segments, buttery, peppery greens and shaved fennel in the lightest of vinaigrettes that whispered of garlic.

Main courses include a striking whole Wolf Ranch quail ($24) boned and stuffed with ground Salsiccia de Bra, wild mushrooms, and cipolline onions in a cinnamon-scented wine sauce. Served in a black cast iron pot that our server opened at the table to release a cloud of spiced steam, and paired with truffled polenta, it was fit for a Medici prince. A side dish of Brussels sprouts braised with capers and shallots ($5) was perfect with this.

Desserts were exceptional, such as a tender hot almond cake stuffed with a lemon confit and streaked with rosemary-infused zabaglione ($8). Also stellar: Chocolate pistachio tortino, warm under a melting knob of olive oil gelato and bergamot sauce ($8.) Neither was too sweet, so each component was clear in every bite.

The wine list is a celebration of mostly Italian vintages from the lightest of proseccos to the richest of barberas. If you want two-ounce pours, they’re not on the menu but will be served if you ask.

For an elegant, sensual meal of reasonably priced, unusual Italian cuisine, you can’t beat Perbacco.

Perbacco is at 230 California St., 955- 0663, www.perbaccosf.com. Reservations are recommended. Valet parking available.